Frequently Asked Questions

Q. What is draft? What is combustion air?

A. An adequate chimney is actually more important for successful wood burning than the quality of a stove or fireplace. In other words, without a properly functioning chimney, the best solid fuel burning appliance money could buy would be useless. Problematic chimneys usually expose themselves in a variety of ways. A stove smokes into the room, an inadequate chimney is the most likely cause - Creosote problems, often caused by poor chimney construction or stove installation. Even low heating efficiencies can also be traced to poor chimney draft. In short, 90% of all wood burning problems can be traced to draft and chimneys. Chimney Fundamentals: The function of a chimney is to provide important needs. First, to supply the draft for combustion air into the firebox. And secondly, to carry the products of combustion (smoke) out of the home. The draft of a chimney is created when the air temperature inside the flue is greater than the outside flue temperatures. Since hot air rises, the greater the difference between the inside flue temperatures and outside temperatures, the faster the gases flow or stronger the draft. Also, several other factors play important roles in determining chimney draft quality. Chimney Height -A taller chimney will have the ability to produce more draft than a shorter chimney of equal flue size. Also, it is easy to decrease the draft in a chimney which is too strong, but improving the draft on a short chimney usually results in added cost. Chimney Diameter- Chimney diameter also has an effect on the draft of your chimney. In cases were the chimney is much wider than the flue outlet on the stove, the stove may have a problem sufficiently heating the flue walls. This will allow the gases to cool, thereby slowing the draft down. If possible, the chimney diameter should be similar to the diameter of the flue outlet on the stove. If your chimney is much larger than desired, you may consider relining it with a smaller diameter flue. Chimney Construction - A round chimney flue drafts better than a square or rectangular one. In addition, an insulated chimney (either a metal one or properly constructed masonry chimney) will get warm and stay warm easier, making it easier for the chimney to draft properly. Also, locating the chimney inside will help insulate and reduce the problems of a cool chimney. Combustion Air - All solid fuel appliances need air to support combustion. A house that is too tight may not allow enough air to feed the fire, and a smoking stove or fireplace can result. Adding a fresh air vent or simply cracking a window may correct the situation. Chimney Down Draft - The most common complaint, \"I\'m trying to light my stove and the whole house is filling up with smoke\". The problem is not with the stove or fireplace, but with a chimney that has reversed. Cold air falls and warm air rises, so when the chimney is it\'s not in use, the cold air from outdoors falls down the chimney and tries to enter the house. Clothes dryers, other vented products and bathroom/kitchen exhaust fans aggravate the problem further since they suck air from the home and push it outside. You may even need to inspect the cleanout door, make sure it seals well. Remember, draft is a function of heat and when starting a cool chimney, you must gradually increase the size of the fuel bed until sufficient draft is created. The time it takes to complete this cooking process varies, depending on the size and construction of the chimney. Also, should the chimney ever cool down, you will need to repeat this process. NOTE: Always read the Operators Manual before starting a fire in your appliance.

Q. Why do I have smoke spillage when I refuel my stove or furnace?

A. Smoke spillage is attributable to a problem with the chimney or connector pipe - relating to poor draft. If you want to absolutely prevent smoke spillage and a related condition called back puffing, you should do the following:

1. Check the chimney and connectors for obstructions, and clean the chimney as necessary. Bird nests, animals and creosote are possible causes of blockage. Over hanging trees may also cause down drafts; remove limbs within ten feet of the top of the chimney


2. Make sure the connector pipe to the chimney is not inserted too far into the flue.


3. Make sure all openings into the chimney, such as a clean out doors, are tightly sealed.


4. Try to eliminate elbows in the connection from the flue collar to the chimney. The more elbows, the less potential for draft.


5. Consider increasing the height of the chimney. Remember the higher it is, the better it will draft.


6. Your flue, inside the chimney, may be too large for the appliance. The old rule of thumb certainly applies here - the chimney flue should be sized to the flue collar on the appliance and should never be more than 33% greater than the flue collar size. For example, a flue liner diameter should never be more than 8" for use with a 6" collared appliance. Back puffing is similar to the problem with smoke spillage, as it relates to insufficient draft and can occur even in a good chimney with good draft, when the air to fuel ratio becomes too lean - and especially if it occurs immediately after refueling. The cure is to open the air inlets until the fire bed has stabilized and is burning properly. Only then can the appliance be safely "throttled back."

Q. What is creosote? How is it produced? How can I prevent it?

A. This may seem a "no-brainier" question. But, you would be surprised how few people really understand the subject. Briefly, though, creosote is a natural by product of the incomplete combustion of wood. The main objective for the home owner is to make sure any creosote he may produce is carried away from the home and not allowed to condense in connector pipes or the chimney. Creosote is a truly hazardous substance; it is flammable and when ignited can burn violently and produce extremely dangerous temperatures in the chimney - in excess of 2,000_F. Creosote has many forms - from a watery consistency, to a sticky tar-like substance, to the final form which is glazed, baked-on and difficult to remove. Creosote is best prevented by avoiding the addition of large fuel loads with low air settings and failure to have the appliance properly vented. The worst creosote "stills" are masonry chimneys; and the worst chimneys are those which are installed on the exterior of the home. If the consumer insists on using his masonry chimney and won’t up grade to a factory built model, you might suggest he consider a reline with insulation. In a word, factory built chimneys are safer, more efficient, better designed and more adapted to heating with wood than 90% of all masonry chimneys.

Q. How can I prevent grate burn out and warpage of cast iron parts?

A. All grates are constructed of cast iron which can "burn out" or oxidize rapidly - or warp so severely the grate becomes immobile. The only way to prevent such problems is really quite basic:

1. Never over fire your furnace or stove, either accidentally or deliberately, by leaving the feed or (more importantly) the ash door open during operation. A lot of folks will be tempted to do this if they have a weak flue and/or chimney - or, are overly anxious to heat the home. It’s very easy to open the ash door to provide a lot of combustion air to kick off the process and really get things moving. The danger lies in leaving it open for more than a few minutes, because the phone may ring or the home owner just plain forgets. When this happens temperatures in excess of 1300_ are common, resulting in scorched cabinet paint, thermal shock and breakage, and warpage of cast iron parts - even the splitting of welded seams


2. Failure to empty the ash pan and allowing ashes/cinders to accumulate to the point of contact with the grate can quickly warp or burn out the grate. To function properly - and endure for years as intended - grates rely on the flow of cooling air to prevent warpage or burn out. Rapid deterioration is a sign of abuse. Lastly, consumer failure to maintain gaskets will contribute to early failure of such components by allowing too much combustion air. Again, the customer should be cautioned to always check the integrity of the gaskets and pay particular attention to those on the ash door.

Q. Are there stoves available for mobile home installations?

A. Heaters which should be installed in mobile homes must be specifically tested and listed for use in those homes. Primary requirement of the mobile home standard is that combustion air must be vented directly from outside via a special ductwork to the air inlet of the stove. Also, allowable clearances between the heater and the walls are substantially less. Finally, the heater must firmly attach to the floor of the mobile home.

Q. Why did my old stove work in my chimney, but my new stove has a hard time drafting?

A. Newer stoves require more draft than older stoves, and can require a newer chimney. If there is a question as to whether the chimney will have enough draw to it, we recommend that you have it professionally tested for the proper water column pressure.

Q. I have a new stove. Can I vent directly into my masonry, clay lined, or terracotta chimney?

A. Masonry, clay lined, and terracotta chimneys are all very difficult to get warm and create a draw. When these chimneys are used there is usually a drafting problem associated with them. To avoid this we recommend that you line the chimney with the same size pipe that comes from the stove. The round shape of the stove pipe also creates a better draft than a square shaped chimney.

Q.  What information should we have with us when shopping for a fireplace or stove?

A.

• How many fireplaces / stoves are you looking for?
• What size do you have in mind?
• Do you want your fireplace / stove to produce heat, some, or none at all?
• Where would you like to put the fireplaces / stoves?
• If you're shopping for an insert, you should have the dimensions of the existing fireplace opening.
• Do you have a single, two or three story home?
• How high is your ceiling?
• What is the pitch of your roof? (if applicable)
• What type of fuel would you like to use? Gas, Pellet, Wood?
• How large of an area do you want to heat?
• Do you, or will you, have a raised hearth?
• You should have your address, your phone number and directions to your house.
• You should have blueprints, if new construction.
• What type of style are you looking for? Contemporary, Classic, Rustic?

Q. What questions should we ask when shopping for a fireplace / stove?

A.

• What fireplaces / stoves do you have that will fit my space / location?
• How much heat will it produce?
• How will it be vented?
• What materials may we install around it? tile, stone, marble, drywall, mantel?
• Does it have a fan option?
• Can it be installed with a remote control?
• How efficient / clean burning is it?
• How hot will the surface temperature get?
• Any special requirements (hearth pad, metal framing, electricity, non-combustible material around it)?

Q. What does zero clearance mean?

A. This is a term used typically when purchasing a fireplace for new construction. The term zero clearance should be named close clearance. The term refers to being able to surround or build around your fireplace with combustible materials, usually wood and drywall. With that said, there is usually some clearance needed. For example, clearance to side 0", clearance to top 0", clearance to back 1".

Q. When is a fireplace insert used?

A. This term refers to the application of installing a fireplace insert into an existing fireplace.

Q. When do you need to install a liner in your existing fireplace?

A. When installing an insert (gas, wood and pellet) or if your chimney flue is cracked or heavily worn.

Q. How often should my chimney be cleaned?

A. You should examine your chimney and flue once a year, to see if there is a buildup of creosote and any signs of water damage. A chimney sweep can provide this service.

Q. How often should my fireplace / stove be serviced?

A. Just like your chimney, we suggest that your fireplace or stove be serviced once a year.

Q. What does direct vent mean?

A. Direct vent applies to gas fireplaces, gas inserts and gas stoves. It is the process of using outside air for combustion, thus eliminating the use of preheated indoor air, which is lost up your chimney. Using a direct vent system gives you better indoor air quality, higher efficiency and greater venting options.

Q. What is a B vent system?

A. B vent systems work much the same way as a standard masonry chimney system. It uses indoor air for combustion and removes indoor air, smoke and gasses up your chimney / vent.

Q. What is the difference among single wall, double wall and class A chimneys?

A. Single wall stove pipe is a single layer of steel mostly used with wood stoves. Double wall stove pipe has the same use, and has an air space between an inner pipe and outer pipe, which makes the outer portion of the pipe cooler, enabling your stove to be closer to a combustible surface. Class A chimney is double wall pipe but instead of an air space, it is packed with high heat insulation, which can handle more heat. Class A chimney is used in the attic and outside of the home.

Q. How close can my fireplace / stove be to combustibles? And what does combustible mean?

A. Every stove / fireplace is different, so you will want to check the manufacturer's specifications. The type of venting / pipe you use will play a roll in this as well. Combustible means able to burn.

Q. How is pellet pipe different?

A. Pellet pipe for stoves is a 3" diameter pipe (4" for 2 or more story applications) made out of stainless steel and gasketed inside the pipe. Woodstoves typically are 6"-8" diameter pipe while gas fireplaces / stoves range between 6-5/8"-8-1/2" (sometimes larger). Wood fireplaces range between approximately 8"-16".

Q. How will a fan help my fireplace / stove?

A. A fan's main contribution is distributing the heat your fireplace or stove produces throughout the house. Another great quality about fans is that they push the heat away from mantels or shelves above the fireplace, preventing them from getting really hot.

Q. How does an air-wash system work?

A. Most wood and pellet stoves / inserts have this helpful feature. Just above the door there is a slot of holes where superheated air flows through and immerses your glass, burning off smoke and creosote.

Q. How do I clean the glass on my direct vent gas fireplace / stove / insert?

A. You will probably need to refer to your owner's manual. Most new fireplaces / stoves will have a bottom louver, which folds down. Just under the glass there will be a glass retaining latch, pullout and down. To remove glass, pull lower glass towards you while lifting upward. Gas fireplaces / stoves will commonly have a white film residue. To remove or clean use a ceramic class cleaner. (Do not use any abrasive cleaners. They will scratch your glass.)

Q. What is the best way to clean the glass on my wood or pellet stove / insert?

A. For daily cleaning, use very fine steel wool (while glass is hot) to wipe away deposits. Remember to wear your hearth gloves when doing this! For deeper cleaning, use a glass cleaner designed for removing creosote. Spray cleaner on glass and wipe away deposits using paper towels. Do this when glass is cool.

Q. How do I light my pilot light?

A. Again, you will probably need to refer to your owner's manual or call your local dealer. Most gas log systems will have either a key valve or a safety pilot valve. To light with a key valve, light a long match, slowly turn your gas on by using a key into the key valve, rotating clockwise. Extend your lit match or lighter under the logs and grate.
To light gas logs with a safety pilot valve, turn your on/off pilot knob by pushing in and turning counter-clockwise to full on. Turn knob (without pressing in) clockwise until it stops, this is your pilot position. Light a long match or lighter, find your thermal pile (this is typically under the grate, in the right back corner, looks like a rod and funnel.) Push in on the on/off/pilot knob while lighting the thermal pile. Once lit, keep your on/off/pilot knob pressed in for approximately 45 seconds. Depress and turn counter clockwise to full on.
To light a zero clearance gas fireplace or insert: pull down bottom louvre, turn on/off/pilot knob to pilot position (pilot will be even with the white dash). Press in and hold while pushing the red spark igniter button. Once you see the pilot light, hold in the on/off/pilot knob for 45 seconds, depress and turn counter -clockwise to on. At this point you can light your fire by pressing the on button, using a wall switch or remote control.

Q. What is the difference between natural gas and liquid propane?

A. You will most likely have natural gas in urban housing and propane in rural housing. Natural gas is lighter than air and is 138,000 BTUs a gallon, while propane is heavier than air (caution: propane will pool up if you have a leak - shut gas off immediately until leak can be fixed) and is 90,000 BTUs per gallon.

Q. What is a BTU?

A. British Thermal Unit. It is a measure of heat energy, or the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit.

Q. What type of wood should I use in my wood stove?

A. There are hardwoods (oak, hickory, apple, etc.) and soft woods (pine, birch, poplar, etc.). Your wood should be dry and seasoned before using. Hard woods will have a higher BTU content than soft woods.

Q. How can I tell if my firewood is dry?

A. Look at the ends to see if they have cracks in them. If they don't your wood could be wet. Take two pieces of wood and hit them together. If they have a cracking sound, it's dry. If they thud, it's wet. You could also take a core sample to determine moisture content. Moisture content should be about 20%.

Q. Is it better to burn an oak or pine pellet?

A. Hard woods are generally the preferred species for cordwood appliances because of their higher BTU content and lower emissions. Pellets from soft woods generally have slightly higher heat value and lower ash content than pellets produced from hard woods. Pine is a soft wood which will outperform oak in a pellet application. Oak is less expensive, though.